There are some places you visit that instantly feel relaxed, this is how I felt in the Cook Islands. From the moment I stepped off the plane, I knew this was a little pocket of paradise that is such a hidden gem. Life moves slowly here in the best way possible. The trees sway in the breeze and the ocean sparkles in every shade of blue. Locals greet you like family and chat as though they’ve known you forever.
Whether you’re dreaming of pure relaxation, planning an island‑hopping adventure or searching for the perfect resort, here’s a deep dive into my trip with honest first impressions and helpful tips for you.
This was my first time in the Cook Islands and the first thing you notice is how genuinely warm and welcoming everyone is. I also travelled in November, this too was very, very warm! You can be as social or as tucked away as you want here, everything feels easy… you can lounge and swim at quiet beaches, scooter around the island or book great local tours — it really suits many travellers. The Cook Islands is understated, not flashy and both islands I visited (Rarotonga and Aitutaki) offer something special, but each has its own personality. Here’s what I discovered:
RAROTONGA: The Gateway and Heart of the Cook Islands
Rarotonga (affectionately known as ‘Raro’ for short) is not just your gateway to the Cook Islands, it is a perfect mix of relaxation and adventure. You can drive the entire island in about 45 minutes and you’ll find beauty around every turn. Some of my favourite things about this island are:
- The beautiful beaches you can easily access almost anywhere
- The ability to get out and sample great dining and cafés, you are not just stuck in a large resort
- Easy island transport by bus, scooter, bicycle or car. The island buses are easy to use but do sometimes run on island time 🙂 Bring cash for your pass or single trip.
- So many activities available from snorkeling to cultural shows
My Favourite Rarotonga Experiences
Progressive Dinner Tour — My Top Recommendation!
This is a must-do in my opinion. We can include this in your trip and you visit three local homes for appetizers, mains and dessert. Come hungry. My favourite dish was Rukau which is a local delicacy of taro leaves cooked in coconut cream with caramelized onions.
ATV and Buggy Tours
If you like a bit of adrenalin and adventure – jump on an ATV tour to travel the rugged interior to waterfalls and historic points. The buggy tours are all about getting muddy.
Cook Islands Cultural Night
This was a fun night out. The buffet dinner was a tasty mix of local flavours and popular dishes plus there was an over‑water show featuring local legends and storytelling. I recommend booking the combo for the full experience which also includes a village tour.
Muri Lagoon Cruise & Snorkelling
A fun snorkeling trip with a delicious BBQ lunch on a small island.
Where to Eat in Rarotonga
Depending on where you stay, you may have your own self-contained kitchen or you may have a restaurant if its a resort. The great thing about Rarotonga is that there are plenty of dining options on the island, some of my favourites were:
- Palace Takeaways – An unassuming takeout spot popular with locals… Get any burger “wet”, this is their secret menu item they are ‘famous’ for and trust me, its delicious!
- The Falafel Shack – This casual little seaside gem is right next to the lagoon so you couldn’t ask for better views. The food also happens to be excellent. Note: At the time I visited they took cash only (although this could change).
- Wilson’s Beach Bar (now called Castaways Beach Bar) – This was a great spot with a happy hour, great food and live entertainment from talented local performers.
- Antipodes Restaurant – For a splurge dining experience, this restaurant offers excellent Mediterranean inspired eats. I did not get to try it but am listing here as so many people told me about it I can only assume it is worth a taste and is on my list for next time I am in town.
And then there is coffee.. if your morning starts with beans you will appreciate a good brew on vacation and here are a few of my favourite places in Rarotonga to grab coffee:
- LBV (short for Le Bon Vivant) excellent coffee, but as a bonus also has amazing fresh donuts with changing flavours daily (although I recommend getting in early before they sell out).
- Beluga – Havana coffee, which many locals claim as their favourite on the island. It is casual cafe style dining perfect for daytime meals during the week (sadly at the time of writing this they do not open weekend or public holidays).
- Circles Café – Great flat white coffee near Wigmores (a grocery store), good spot for a coffee if also need to pick up some supplies.
AITUTAKI: The Jewel of the Cook Islands
If Rarotonga is vibrant, Aitutaki is dreamy. It’s quieter, more scenic and offers some of the most incredible turquoise lagoon views I’ve ever seen (like, postcard-style views everywhere!).
My Top Tips for Visiting Aitutaki:
- Skip cycling — the hills are brutal
- Get your scooter licence at the local police station for $2.50 NZD (if you didn’t already get it in Rarotonga)
- Visit the massive road‑spanning Banyan tree that has formed a natural tunnel between two villages,
- Explore small villages and local stores
- Last but not least, don’t miss cruising to One Foot Island. Spend a perfect lagoon day snorkeling, a yummy BBQ lunch and a unique passport stamp. The lagoon has so many shades of blue it barely feels real.
My Ideal Cook Islands Itinerary
This is a tough one! My ideal itinerary would be to take an extended break here for a few weeks, BUT realistically when time allows for a shorter beach break… I would recommend :
Rarotonga: at least 5-6 nights
- Stay in a self-contained villa or an adults‑only boutique hotel
Scooter or e‑bike the coastal ring road, stop for beach swims - Snorkel the marine reserve, enjoy an island night, take a gentle hike to The Needle for views
Aitutaki: at least 4-5 nights
- Stay in a romantic bungalow or lagoon‑front suite
- Full‑day lagoon cruise with sandbar swims and vibrant coral gardens
- Sunset dinner on the beach, lazy mornings on your deck
- Optional: Outer‑island day trip or whale‑watching (seasonal)
- Hire a scooter to explore the island.
Final Thoughts: Take me back!
I squeezed a lot into my first visit and still missed so much. That’s the thing about the Cook Islands — once you go, you’re already planning your return. Whether you’re a beach bum, diver, adventure lover, foodie (yes there are lots of local flavours to sample) or slow‑traveller, Rarotonga and Aitutaki offer something genuinely unforgettable.
Top Cook Islands tip: Book the tours in advance – especially the progressive dinner as it is only on a couple of nights a week. The tours can sell out months in advance, depending on the season.
We are lucky that so many of our team have been to the Cook Islands (some of us many times), so if you are looking for true specialists to help start planning a trip somewhere unique, Get in touch!
